view over Reykjavik in winter
view over Reykjavik in winter
  • standing on overhangs
    • 05/08/2017
so since leaving Stavanger, the scenery epicness has gone up a notch.
First a visit to the insanely touristy preikestolen, a great big slab of rock with a sheer 600m drop to the fjord below.
The hike is only 4km so literally bus loads of people day trip from Stavanger.
I camped by the lake and went up in the evening so not too busy.
Overnight, a loud thunderstorm, and an ensuing day of shower dodging whilst looking for methylated spirits, which I could only find at a petrol station for £8 a litre.
The outdoor shops, which actually sell trangia stoves, had none, nor did the supermarkets, which were a sure but in Sweden.

I digress, so the roads not too bad, hugging the valley edges with sheer cliff and rock falls either side.
Alternate routes are not existing, but often the main road has been upgraded, leaving sections of old road traffic free.
A sequence of complete drenchings and warm sunshine led to a short ferry crossing, then delighted to find a bit of field with a flat patch, view of the fjord and light breeze deterring midges.

Next day, rain started just as I finished packing tent, and continued pretty much all day, meaning not many photo opportunities but head down and cover some miles.
A fine day for tunnels and bridges though.
Camped on a football pitch on the edge of Etne.

Yesterday the weather was good, yes good, and the scenery crazy, waterfalls everywhere, winding roads along river gorges, peaks with snow on them.
Many a sight which would attract flocks of daytrippers in the UK are ignored as they pale in comparison to other wonders down the road.

Finishing up with food shopping at the slightly odd town of Odds, then a sting in the tail 500m ascent to my luxurious airbnb accomodation, ready for....

Today, hiking to Trolltunga, a 22km round trip, so enough to put off the bus tours, but still visited by hundreds every day. Apparently 5 years ago this spot was relative unknown, but now there is a whole industry for it.
Trolltunga is a rock which juts out over the fjord, making for some cool photos. And that's all really!
But very cool despite having to set off at 6am to beat the crowds!

This is a bit if a "cape wrath" moment for me, as seeing a picture of trolltunga planted the seed of desire to visit Norway and hence this whole trip.
Having got there, the remaining 3 days getting to Bergen feels like a necessity rather than a pleasure. Although I am sure there is plenty more great stuff to see, rain dependent!
And if there's one thing you can depend on, it's rain.
When, how heavy etc are just details, footnotes, its a fact of life here that should be accepted as the norm and taken in stride. Still, one can dream!
Under 200km to go...


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