Bearded tramp at the end of LEJOG, Oct 2013
Bearded tramp at the end of LEJOG, Oct 2013
  • Feeling Hungary
    • 25/08/2019
After a slow start to the day, made slower by following a bike path that turned into a flooded muddy lane, I'm on track for the Hungarian border. One final stop at a roadside monument to the liberation of the area by the red army, which seems to have been erected by the commies as a reminder of who is holding the guns, and finally over the crest of a hill into a whole new country.

The landscape is immediately totally different, well not really but it feels like a fresh start, well the woodlands are predominantly broadleaf now rather than forestry pine?

And quickly recording first "Castle on a hill". In the next couple of days there are a few more but they're all detours and I can't quite be bothered. Am I becoming a castle critic?
Plenty of wildlife, Birds of prey, deer, woodpeckers.
Little narrow gauge railway up the valley, I'm travelling through the Zempléni Landscape Protection Area, a hilly forestry bit full of wild blackberries.
Every village has regular water hand pumps, picnic benches, camping doesn't seem to be forbidden.
Vineyards vineyards vineyards, and cycle route signposting, whatever next?

Well, next day is back to earth, up and down small mounds under baking sun, villages are more rustic and obviously poorer, the water pumps I thought were helpful relics are being used in earnest by villagers, of which there are many Roma heritage. Several villages are having some kind of fête, first weekend after some national day?
To finish the day I get chased by unchained dogs twice, swarmed by Roma children once, and then have to move my tent as it turns out a bloke with a gun is unimpressed that I've scared the deer away. Anyway, end up with a peaceful night under a perfectly clear sky, with just the distant sound of party music and fireworks drifting up the valley.

Short day today (sun 25th Aug), to cover the last 20km to Aggtelek, famed for its massive cave system. The main show cave I visited next to the campsite is suitably impressive, with a bonus demonstration of the acoustics in one huge cavern used for concerts. The rest is all stalactites, stalagmites, pillars, etc.
And a relaxing afternoon chewing off all my finger nails listening to test match special as Ben Stokes takes England from "the ashes are lost" to "miraculous recovery". and then some beer and goulash and dumplings and an obscene chocolatey dessert. Spoiling myself.


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